Chapter FIVE
The NEIGHBORHOOD
Upper East Side Essential
The pièce de résistance
The internationally renowned Metropolitan Museum of Art, with its collection of over two million pieces, offers new treasures to discover at every visit. Some works demand repeat visits, like this fragment of a colossal Greek statue from the second century B.C.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 FIFTH AVENUE
PICTURE PERFECT RETREAT:
The ground-floor Nolen Library invites visitors to browse their extensive art-book collection. The children’s reading room has 500 picture books plus story-time events.
The contemporists
This first New York gallery of Zurich-based Hauser & Wirth shows post-war contemporary work from artist estates the proprietors have represented for over 26-years. Philip Guston, Joan Mitchell, Louise Bourgeois can all be found in this elegant former townhouse.
Hauser & Wirth
32 EAST 69TH STREET
OTHER INNOVATORS:
Nahmad Contemporary – 980 Madison Avenue Skarstedt Gallery – 20 East 79th Street Gagosian Gallery – 980 Madison Avenue Richard Gray Gallery – 1018 Madison Avenue Almine Rech – 39 East 78th Street
The modernists
From the moment Brett Gorvy, a former Christie’s chairman, and Dominique Lévy, an international gallerist, opened Lévy Gorvy in 2017, they impressed the art world with their global reach. Their gallery shows, with significant works including those by Picasso, DeKooning, and Basquiat, are not to be missed and their knowledge of modern Asian artists might just be unrivaled.
Lévy Gorvy
909 MADISON AVENUE
MORE RELATIVISM:
Neue Galerie New York – 1048 Fifth Avenue Van de Weghe – 1018 Madison Avenue #5 Helly Nahmad Gallery – 975 Madison Avenue Michael werner gallery – 4 East 77th Street #2 Mnuchin Gallery – 45 East 78th Street Di Donna – 744 Madison Avenue
The masters
Touring the Frick’s collection is an inspired stroll through masterworks, from the Renaissance to the 18th century. Alongside the lacquered beauties, explore the extensive collection of Limogene enamels and Meissen porcelain.
The Frick Collection
1 EAST 70TH STREET
Choose your story:
With all the canvases of Fragonard’s “Progress of Love” in one place, you can play at guessing which order he intended.
OTHER BEAUTIES:
Acquavella – 18 East 79th Street
architecture
The Upper East Side is full of gorgeous townhouses, embassies, and historic mansions, but the modernist gem that must be seen in every season and time of day to be fully appreciated is Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim Museum.
The Guggenheim Museum
1071 FIFTH AVENUE
ENHANCE THE EXPERIENCE:
The curators have perfected their innovative uses of the conch-like building. Check out projections or concerts when music spirals to the ceiling.
OTHER GREAT LINES:
THE MET BREUER – 945 Madison Avenue
Artifacts
The former Warburg mansion houses 30,000 objects covering four thousand years of Jewish history. Public events include performances, lectures, and crafts that engage young and old alike.
The Jewish Museum
1109 FIFTH AVENUE
MORE DESIGN DESTINATIONS:
COOPER HEWITT – 2 East 91st Street Museum of the city of new york – 1220 Fifth Avenue
Auction
Now nearly three centuries old, Sotheby’s Auction house is synonymous with all that is precious in art, collectibles and jewelry. The public can tour the auction offerings before the gavel falls to get a view of masterworks and memorabilia.
Sotheby’s
1334 York Avenue
Quick Takes:
Make sure to stop by The Emporium at Sotheby’s New York, a permanent retail store offering the finest assortment of authenticated luxury items for immediate purchase.
memberships
The Explorer’s Club has included such daredevil innovators and explorers as Buzz Aldrin, Sylvia Earle, Tenzing Norgay, and the Prince of Bhutan, Jigyel Ugyen Wangchuck, and is open to any applicant who peers deeply into the unknown. The less adventurous may enjoy public lectures about discoveries in distant corners of the universe or under the microscope.
The Explorer’s Club
46 East 70th Street
92nd street Y
1395 Lexington Avenue
BOOKS
Francophiles seeking books in French (or English-translations of French literature) need look no further than Albertine, the shop with the largest collection of such publications in the United States. Housed in the French Embassy, the bookstore specializes in writing from 30 French-speaking countries.
Albertine
972 Fifth Avenue
BEYOND THE BINDING:
Check out the store’s offering of over 650 French magazine titles from around the world, either in stock or available for order.
OTHER PAGE TURNERS:
Ursus books – 50 East 78th Street #1C the Corner bookstore – 1313 Madison Avenue Shakespeare & Co. – 939 Lexington Avenue Logos Bookstore – 1575 York Avenue Assouline – 25 East 77th Street
photo op
The mesmerizing pathways and complex plantings of the Conservatory Garden must be visited in every season. Through the Vanderbilt Gate, these six acres of Central Park include formal gardens in the English, Italian and French traditions, planted for a cycle of unending color.
The Conservatory Garden
East side of the park, between 104th and 106th
NEVER A RUSH HOUR:
Free of runners and bicyclists, the garden is the perfect place for contemplation and creativity.
More close-ups:
Bethesda fountain – East side of the park, between 72nd and 73rd
Twilight stroll
New York grows even more magical at sunset. The street lamps glow, the fountains twinkle with light, and the soft sound of clapping horse hooves floats towards the canopy of trees in Central Park. Wandering this landscape is one of the great gifts of metropolitan life.
Bow Bridge
West side of the park, between 73rd and 74th
MORE SPECIAL SCENES:
The Pool – West side of the park, between 101st and 102nd The ramble – West side of the park, between 79th and 80th The fountains in front of the met – Fifth Avenue between 82nd and 83rd
The Central Park zoo
Residents love to make regular stops to greet the penguins, red pandas, snow leopards, and sea lions. Run by the Wildlife Conservation Society, the menagerie focuses on naturalistic climate zones and education about species endangerment in the wild. A great place to entertain and educate children.
East side of the park, between 64th and 65th
TIMING IS EVERYTHING:
The sea lion feeding shows are a longstanding happening at the zoo. You can catch a feeding at 11:30 am, 1:30 pm or 3:30 pm. Also, don’t miss the iconic animal clock chimes on the hour.
Winter Wonderland
When the snow falls, Central Park transforms into a wonderland, open to cross-country skiing along the bridle paths or sledding at Pilgrim Hill or Cedar Hill. Skating happens every day through the season at Wollman Rink. Even Conservatory Water, the site of the toy boat sailing in the warmer weather, is open for skating under the right conditions.
Wollman Rink
Fifth Avenue between 59th and 66th
Athletic Pursuits
Hitting a home run at the Heckscher Ballfields is even more of a win with the cityscape in the background and the dramatic rock outcroppings ringing the six fields. Join league play or get competitive through workplace teams. Alternatively, you can simply enjoy watching the action.
Heckscher Ballfields
Central Park West, between 64th and 65th
MORE PLACES TO COMPETE:
Randall’s island fields– 130 Central Road Fastbreak sports – 1629 First Avenue Carl Schurz Park Basketball courts – East End Avenue between 84th and 86th Great Lawn Volleyball Courts – East side of the park between 85th and 86th
omakase
In a space constructed to resemble a multi-roomed Japanese temple, Chef Nozomu Abe of Sushi Noz has well earned his Michelin star. Under his meticulous care, diners find all of their senses come to focus on these exquisite sea-fresh creations.
Sushi Noz
181 East 78th Street
Gone fishing:
Miso soup, fish by the pound or spicy caviar can all head home with you after a visit to Noz Market around the corner.
Other Fresh finds:
Sushi Ishikawa – 419 East 74th Street Sushi of Gari – 402 East 78th Street Kappo Masa – 976 Madison Avenue Sushi Sasabune – 401 East 73rd Street
Trattorias
When your soul hungers for fresh pasta and Italian secondi of the best ingredients, head to the cozy Sfoglia. Roast meats, contorni, and house-made burrata bring the feel of Rome to any evening.
Sfogilia
1402 Lexington Avenue
Other pasta stops:
Elio’s – 1621 Second Avenue Lusardi’s – 1494 Second Avenue Sandro’s – 306 East 81st Street Campagnola – 1382 First Avenue Caravaggio – 23 East 74th Street Il Divo – 1347 Second Avenue Sistina – 24 East 81st Street
Coffee break
Bluestone Lane, adjacent to the Church of the Heavenly Rest, serves brews and a healthy Australian café menu under the church’s sandstone archways. This is a particular favorite for explorers of Museum Mile and connoisseurs of a good croissant.
Bluestone Lane
1085 Fifth Avenue
OTHER BREWS:
Hutch & Waldo – 247 East 81st Street Ralph’s – 1588 First Avenue Handcraft coffee – 151 East 77th Street Café Blériot xi – 226 East 83rd Street
Brunch
Eggs benedict are served with a side of glamour at the Milan-based, white-tablecloth Sant Ambroeus. The people-watching makes it a neighborhood favorite, and the outstanding espresso transports you to Italy in one sip.
Sant Ambroeus
1000 Madison Avenue
Other Weekend stops:
King’s carriage house – 251 East 82nd Street Café Sabarsky – 1048 Fifth Avenue Eli’s table – 1413 Third Avenue
The Paninoteca
Via Quadronno takes the pannino to the next level with the freshest ingredients and inspiring touches like pâté condiment or caper sauce. Close to Central Park, the restaurant presents a dilemma: eat a gelato on the way to the picnic or on the way home?
Via Quadronno
25 East 73rd Street
BEYOND BREAD:
Order their vegetable dishes as well. The place works magic with asparagus and soups.
Burger
A New York institution, J.G. Melon focuses on doing the burger right—and they succeed. Indoor and outdoor service, cottage fries, a good beer list, and secretly scrumptious desserts.
J.G. Melon
1291 Third Avenue
OTHER HOT GRILLS:
EJ’s Luncheonette – 1271 Third Avenue Maison Diner – 1634 York Avenue
A slice
PQR serves Roman-style pizza slices with inspired toppings. Regulars tout the sweet and savory combinations, such as the butternut squash or fig and prosciutto.
PQR
1631 Second Avenue
Other Heavenly Pies:
Serafina pizzeria – 1022 Madison Avenue
Ceviche & tacos
It may be tempting to try all the Mexican mainstays at Toloache but don’t skip the ceviche—particularly the lobster and the hamachi. The chef focuses on the nuances, including over 12 different chili spices and bespoke margaritas.
Toloache
166 East 82nd Street
Other Great Catches:
Calexico – 1491 Second Avenue La esquina ues – 1402 Second Avenue
Bistros
The beloved French bistro, Quatorze deserves a visit for a morning café au lait or a dinner rendezvous for duck confit, oysters, or steak frites. It serves a clientele so loyal the place feels like home.
Quatorze
1578 First Avenue
PLUS PERFECT:
Le Bilboquet – 20 East 60th Street Café Boulud – 20 East 76th Street orsay – 1057 Lexington Avenue The Mark – 25 East 77th Street Bistro Jacques – 206 East 85th Street
Great steak
Locals come to Quality Eats when they need their steak fix. Good strong cocktails, bacon with peanut butter and jalapeño, and the monkey bread earn raves.
Quality Eats
1496 Second Avenue
OTHER PRIME CUTS:
tbar – 1278 Third Avenue
Cocktails
The Upper East Side offers a unique version of cocktail hour: the very best of old-school Manhattan martini culture. With murals by Madeline illustrator Ludwig Bemelmans and live jazz performed by local luminaries, Bemelmans Bar at The Carlyle is classic New York.
Bemelmans Bar
35 East 76th Street
MORE POURS:
Café carlyle – 35 East 76th Street Penrose – 1590 Second Avenue
Bouquets
An Upper East Side landmark in the art of blooms, Plaza Flowers’ bouquets can beautify a table or lift someone’s spirits.
Plaza Flowers
944 Lexington Avenue
Other Pretty Petals:
Ovando – 1091 Madison Avenue Flowers by Philip – 1311 Lexington Avenue Design by Anthony Ortiz – 957 Park Avenue
BAKERies
Levain’s four kinds of cookies—all thick, moist yet crunchy—have made the bakery famous from coast to coast. Make sure the most coveted chocolate chip walnut variety makes it into your bag.
Levain
1484 Third Avenue
More Sweet Stuff:
Maman – 1424 Third Avenue La Maison du chocolat – 1018 Madison Avenue Lady M Cake boutique – 41 East 78th Street Ladurée – 864 Madison Avenue
FISH
Sable’s is legendary for their smoked fish and lox, whether on a bagel or by the pound. Locals make it a weekly or daily stop and order the platters for the holidays.
Sable’s
1330 Third Avenue
MORE TO CATCH:
Dorian’s fish market – 1580 York Avenue
Your grocer
Eli’s Market makes grocery shopping a gourmet adventure. The neighborhood’s long-time food market carries meats, cheeses and staples, from the basics to hard-to-find imports.
Eli’s Market
1415 Third Avenue
Guest Advice:
The market’s flowers are nice enough to present as a gift.
More Bounty:
Whole foods Market – 1551 Third Avenue Citarella – 1313 Third Avenue Gentile’s fine foods – 1118 Madison Avenue Agata & Valentina – 1505 First Avenue Butterfield market – 1114 Lexington Avenue
Roasts
Over many generations of family ownership, Lobel’s has earned the adoration of the neighborhood with impeccable meats and dedicated customer service.
Lobel’s
1096 Madison Avenue
Other Great Grilling:
Fleishers craft butchery – 1325 Third Avenue
ice cream & Frozen Yogurt
The 20-year-old Tel-Aviv favorite for gelato and yogurt now serves the Upper East Side their extraordinary flavors. The counter staff’s generous portioning has made this spot instantly popular.
Anita’s Gelato
1561 Second Avenue
MORE SCOOPS:
Emack & Bolio’s – 1564 First Avenue Butterfield frozen yogurt – 1114 Lexington Avenue
Shoes
It’s hard not to love a shoe line that can take you from high tops to stilettos with fresh profiles and appealing hues. After selecting footwear at Acne, go on to build and layer your look with cool, modern separates and suits.
Acne Studios
926 Madison Avenue
Next Steps:
Aquazzura – 939 Madison Avenue Bandier – 1061 Madison Avenue Golden goose – 941 Madison Avenue
Framed
The extensive selection at optical shop Anne & Valentin attracts fans but even more spectacular is the special care that the staff spends in finding the right frames for their customers. The consultation itself is a transformative experience.
Anne & Valetin
1186 Madison Avenue
Other Looks:
Warby Parker – 1209 Lexington Avenue
The frock
For decades now, the perfect dress for a cocktail party, celebration or benefit dinner is found at Carolina Herrera’s flagship store. The three floors are a sumptuous and playful retreat with lots of light and a spiraling staircase.
Carolina Herrera
954 Madison Avenue
More Dress up:
Zadig & Voltaire – 992 Madison Avenue Rebecca Taylor – 980 Madison Avenue Prada – 841 Madison Avenue Alice & Olivia – 1188 Madison Avenue Zimmerman – 900 Madison Avenue Theory – 1157 Madison Avenue Maje – 1070 Madison Avenue L’agence – 1011 Madison Avenue Love shack fancy – 1058 Madison Avenue Agnes B. – 1063 Madison Avenue
Bag love
There’s something about the sleek simplicity of a Giorgio Armani bag that inspires immediate adoration. Having the gorgeous flagship store nearby makes browsing for your next passion an absolute pleasure.
Armani
760 Madison Avenue
THE Kids
Party dresses and charming rosebud rompers can be found at Fleurisse, the best stop for baby gifts from sweaters to nursery items.
Fleurisse
905 Madison Avenue
MORE SMALL STYLES:
Agnes B. – 1063 Madison Avenue Ralph Lauren Kids – 878 Madison Avenue Crew cuts – 1190 Madison Avenue
Sweet smells
Inside the bubble-stopper bottles lined up for testing at the exquisite Argentinian perfumery, Fuegia 1833, Patagonia’s harvested essences wait for release. The boutique perfume-maker directs every step of the process from exploration, to distillation, to placing them in their signature wood boxes.
Fueguia
948 Madison Avenue
SELECT THE BEST VINTAGE:
Each bottle is labeled with the year of creation and its edition from one to 400, bearing the imprint of that season’s rain and sun.
Other Scents:
Frederic Malle – 898 Madison Avenue #4145 Dyptique – 971 Madison Avenue
The bangle
Buccellati has been producing marvels since its founding by the “Prince of Goldsmiths” in Milan in 1919. It’s the ideal place to find the right bauble to delight a loved one or a collector.
Buccellati
714 Madison Avenue
For the home
Enter into the curated cabinet of curiosities at Creel and Gow and you may feel you’re visiting the home of a world explorer with exquisite taste—which is pretty accurate. The owners travel the globe to find the most marvelous natural and crafted objects to fill their customers’ homes with wonder.
Creel & Gow
131 East 70th Street
OTHER HEARTHS:
Yves delorme – 1070 Madison Avenue Gracious home – 1210 Third Avenue
The One-stop shop
Ralph Lauren’s four-floor Renaissance Revival chateau is a true upscale department store, filled with all the goods needed for a lovely life— men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing, housewares, perfumes and jewelry.
Ralph Lauren
888 Madison Avenue
BEYOND THE OBJECTS:
The small café in the store is excellent, particularly its orange espresso and hot chocolate.
More Variety Stops:
Fivestory – 1020 Madison Avenue
polish
Plunge your feet into a tub of cucumbers or rose petals. Sink your hands into warm milk and get them scrubbed with honey salt. Choose from a wall of polishes from brands ranging from Chanel to Michael Kors.
Jin Soon
421 East 73rd Street
The Tea:
The citrus brew they serve to clients as they relax is delicious.
The primP
The skilled technicians at Kimara Ahnert find the perfect makeup for your special occasions, important meetings or photo shoots. Let them pamper and ready you. The facials and day cream also earn raves.
Kimara Ahnert
1113 Madison Avenue
Other Palettes:
SEPHORA – 144 East 86th Street Bluemercury – 1566 Third Avenue
Salons
Frédéric Fekkai is synonymous with the Upper East Side and for good reason. The purveyor of perfect cuts, buttery highlights, and chestnut-y glow, a visit to this spa earns compliments long after the royal treatment.
Frédéric Fekkai
25 East 77th Street
Other Best Tresses:
Valery Joseph – 1044 Madison Avenue John Frieda Salon – 30 East 76th Street Sally Hershberger – 17 East 71st Street
The workout
Every body gets unique, personalized treatment and fitness goals at the exclusive E by Equinox. From its full spa to its organic menu, this townhouse-style athletic center offers a haven of health, staffed by experts focused on making you feel your best.
E by Equinox
30 East 85th Street
On the go:
Members get to use all E by Equinox facilities around the world, for workouts and play.
More Studios:
Equinox – 203 East 85th Street Y7 Studio Upper East Side – 1459 Third Avenue Pure Barre – 1325B Lexington Avenue SLT – 177 East 87th Street Barry’s Bootcamp – 1216 Second Avenue Soulcycle – 1470 Third Avenue Rumble – 1495 Third Avenue
